The Traveling Teacher in Bruges, Amsterdam and crete
My summer concluded with a fantastic return to Europe; this time to visit Bruges, Belgium, Amsterdam, The Netherlands and Chania, Crete. My partner, Stu, and I decided on this itinerary because it included two European cities I have long wanted to visit (Bruges and Amsterdam) and one our favorite countries, Greece. We were seeking a mix of art, sightseeing and beach time relaxation. This trip was rich in cultural experiences and heartfelt connections to people of the past and present.
Beautiful Bruges, Belgium
I first learned about Bruges during my junior year abroad in Paris. In the days before social media and the internet, we relied on word of mouth to decide where to spend vacations. I remember a fellow college student’s advice to skip Brussels and go to Bruges instead. Although I am sure Brussels is very nice, Bruges is a magical city. It is small; everything is within 20 minute walking distance. It is the perfect place to ease into a European adventure and get acclimated to the time change.
In the library of the famous Rijksmusuem, Amsterdam
Our hotel was right on a canal so I spent time reading and writing on the terrace. The temperature was temperate; much cooler than we are used to at home. I was grateful that I packed an extra sweater! We spent two days eating the local delicacies (mussels and fries, Belgian waffles, and chocolate), visiting museums and getting lost on Bruges’ narrow streets. Often called the “Venice of the North”, canals crisscross the city. We took a canal boat ride which was very pleasant. A note to anyone with hearing difficulty, sit by the front of the boat! I had a hard time hearing the driver.
O.L.V Kerk Musuem (The Musuem of the Church of our lady)
One of Bruges’ claims to fame is that it houses one of Michelangelo’s only statues outside of Italy. His Madonna and Child is a small statue located in the Museum of the Church of our Lady. It is free to enter the church but to see the Madonna and Child, as well as the tombs of some of Bruges’ historical elites, you must pay an entrance fee. I was so moved by this statue and especially love the tenderness with which Michelangelo sculpted Mary holding her son’s hand (unfortunately I did not capture it in the photo below). To me, this masterpiece communicates a universal love of mother and child.
Michaelangel’s Mother and Child
Basilica of the Holy Blood
Fortunately, our hotel concierge told us that the church offers a veneration of the relic (a cloth soaked in Jesus’ blood) from 2:00-4:00 daily. I remembered this as I was on my way to Saint John’s Hospital so I turned around to visit the church first. I lined up outside and waited for my turn to enter the chapel and go up to the steps to view the relic. It was very moving. I lit a candle for my father, as I often do when I visit holy places, and admired the rest of the basilica.
Outside the Basilica of the Holy Blood. I am holding a card with an image of the relic since photographs are not allowed inside.
Saint John’s Hospital
Our limited time in Bruges meant deciding between the Gruuthuse museum (which houses many important Flemish masters) and Saint John’s Hospital. Our hotel concierge recommended we visit Saint John’s and I am so glad that I did. The space itself, a former hospital that served the poorest and neediest of people during the Middle Ages, is incredible. It radiates the theme of heart and compassion. Upon entering, you can place your hand on a machine which shows your heartbeat alongside the heartbeats of others who have visited the museum thus demonstrating our shared connection. There is a room dedicated to Flemish Renaissance artist (and hometown hero who lived and died in Bruges) Hans Memling. You can see how the hospital’s patients could attend religious services as there is a chapel in the middle of the hospital. The structure is beautiful and the collection so well curated.
We Climbed the Belfort (belfry)! all 366 steps!
Before catching the train to Amsterdam, we decided to climb the Belfort tower. We arrived at opening time (9:00 am) and bought a timed ticket. The tower’s narrow stairs can only accommodate a limited number of people at a time. There are stops along the way where you learn about the history of the tower, bells and organ. Climbers be advised that the steps are narrow and slick at times. The view of the city was fantastic!
Next time we go to Bruges (because you always have to leave a few reasons to come back). We plan to:
Rent bikes and explore the outskirts of the city.
Take the Halfmoon Beer tour (we showed up too late).
Visit the Gruuthuse museum
Amsterdam!
Amsterdam is a gorgeous city. Canals, bikes, flowers, bridges abound! We loved it and plan to go back. I have long wanted to go for the museums and we barely scratched the surface! There is so much to see and do. We stayed for 4 nights but could easily have stayed a week. The bustle of the center of town is fun but we fell in love the the quieter Jordaan neighborhood and the 9th district which were fortunately near our hotel.
The Anne Frank House
First logistics, tickets to the museum, set in the warehouse and secret Annex where Anne Frank and 7 others hid from the Nazis, sell out quickly. I bought them 6 weeks in advance. They are released on Tuesdays so I marked my calendar and got online as soon I woke up that day.
To prepare for this visit, I reread The Diary of Anne Frank. Actually, I am not sure I read it very carefully the first time (don’t tell my 8th grade English teacher!) Reading it just before my visit meant that I carried Anne’ voice with me as I visited the annex.
The museum is so thoughtful and filled with quotes from Anne’s diary. I appreciated the experience of traveling though the space in my own time with an audio recording of a girl reading Anne’s words. I cannot capture in words the feeling of walking through the small spaces where she spent nearly 2 years. I will say that the most moving part of the visit was seeing the stairs to the attic in Peter Van Pel’s room. Peter (a teenager whose family was also in hiding alongside Anne’s) became Anne’s friend and confidant. Anne looked forward to her daily visits to the attic where there was one window offering the view of the outside world. The view from that window was her lifeline and connection to the outside world. From her diary, one can see how much nature inspired hope and beauty in Anne. Because the window is on the far wall opposite the stairs, the museum placed a mirror on the wall so that you can see the view Anne and Peter would have taken in. I lingered there, soaking in her essence and her hope.
The museum is excellent. Visitors can view Anne’s original diary. She also kept a “Book of Beautiful Sentences”, where, at her father’s encouragement, she recorded quotes from books she read.
Since he was the only one of the 8 to survive, the museum showcases interviews with Anne’s father, Otto Frank. I was especially moved by what he discovered about Anne’s (or Anna as he called her) dairy. He shares that he had no idea she had these inner feelings. The museum ends by tracking Otto’s long journey home after the Soviets liberated Auschwitz. It also included interviews years later with the people who helped the Franks and those who hid with them.
I walked in silence around the Jordaan after visiting the museum carrying Anne and those in hiding in my heart. This is a place everyone should visit.
The Van Gogh Museum
BIG LESSON; Buy your tickets to the Van Gogh museum at least a week in advance. Like the Anne Frank House, these tickets sell out fast so if you have your heart set on going, as I did, book in advance.
Since college, my dream trip to Amsterdam included The Anne Frank House, The Rijksmuseum and The Van Gogh Museum. My heart sank when I went to buy tickets for the later and the first available was a week after we were set to leave Amsterdam. Stu tried to comfort me by assuring me that we would come back but I had to explore other options. I looked into guided tours but they were the same story. Finally, I found tickets on Trip Advisor for the day we wanted to go but at 4 x the price. We decided to go for it. It took a few days before the tickets arrived in my inbox (a process reminiscent of securing Taylor Swift tickets from Stubhub last year) but we received them on time and truly enjoyed the exhibit.
The museum does an exceptional job offering a nuanced and layered portrait of Vincent Van Gogh. The museum is organized mostly chronological and interspersed with art by artists who inspired Van Gogh, notably Gauguin, as well as modern artists draw from Van Gogh’s style and technique.
The museum takes the stance that Van Gogh’s artistic brilliance was not because of his mental illness but despite it. Of course I could have looked all day at Van Gogh’s famous sunflowers, but I was especially moved by the art he painted during his time in a mental health facility. Having just visited the Anne Frank Museum, I couldn’t help but think that he too found hope outside his window. In fact, he painted the outside views minus the bars that held him inside.
Vincent’s strong family relationships, particularly his loving relationship with his brother, Theo as evidenced by their letter correspondence, is highlighted throughout. The museum has a temporary exhibit about the Van Gogh family. Tragically, Theo died shortly after Vincent’s death leaving Theo’s wife, Jo in charge of Vincent’s artwork. She and later her son, also named Vincent, worked to ensure that Vincent’s art received the attention and respect it deserved.
The Rijksmuseum
Rembrandt and Vermeer are two of my favorite artists. To see their work in this stunning building was pure joy. The museum is huge. One can easily spend a day here. We decided to download the museum’s free app and follow along one of their many tours. We opted for the "Museums highlights” tours. I don’t typically listen to audio tours but I really enjoyed this one. It gave the option of following along or plugging in a work of art’s number to hear about other works that pique your interest along the way. While Rembrnat’s “Night Watch” was impressive, I could have stared for hours at “The Jewish Bride’s” intimacy and play of light in the figures’ clothing. My other favorite was Vermeer’s “The Milkmaid”. I am so envious of anyone who saw the Vermeer exhibit the museum hosted last year.
The hall of honor at the Rijksmuseum
I took this photo partially because seeing original works by Vermeer is a dream but also because I am fascinated the way people photograph art. Are they even looking at it? This trip, i saw people taking multiple photos of the same picture. Are they studying it? I am so curious!
Sail 2025
We are not sailors so you can imagine our surprise to learn that we would be in Amsterdam during a major sailing event! Our hotel offered a boat ride through the canals of the Amstel river and out to the IJ waterway where we rode alongside hundreds of people, in boats like ours, gazing at large sailboats and ships. One boat was modeled after Columbus’ Santa Maria. There were ocean liners, submarines, yachts, you name it. We had a great time taking it all in and getting to know the other families on board. There were 9 of us total.
delightful surprise and heartwarming experience:The Floating Orchestra
During our sail, a local mentioned that there would be an orchestra concert that evening on the Prinsengracht (Prince’s) canal right near our hotel. I had noticed people setting up for an event a few days before. We walked to dinner before the concert to find the canal jammed with the boats of people there to witness the event. By the time we walked by after dinner, the event was well under way. The streets were filled with people, many enjoying picnics along the canal’s bank. We decided to stop and bear witness to this cultural celebration. My heart swelled when the crowd burst into song as the orchestra played an anthem for the city of Amsterdam. Flags of Amsterdam swayed, and an overwhelming feeling of love and pride burst from everyone in the area. It was gorgeous.
Boats line up to enjoy the floating orchestra
Resources for Bruges and Amsterdam
I like to highlight the resources I used when searching for things to do and where (and what) to eat for this potion of our trip! Here are a few…
Bruges by a local You Tube channel
A Wanderlust for Life (with Sean and Jessica, expats from the US.) While they feature other destinations, the majority of their videos are about Amsterdam where they now live. I can vouch for their restaurants recommendations! **Travel tip for Amsterdam: book dinner reservations in advance especially for Friday and Saturday nights! We had trouble finding a table for two on Friday night. We learned our lesson for Saturday and booked ahead of time.
Rick Steeves Audio Europe Travel App In addition to podcast episodes about different European destinations, this app includes multiple city walks in almost every major European city. Stu and I did the walk from the Central Station to the Dam Square through historic Amsterdam and I listened to part of this Jordaan walk. One thing I love about his walks is that often has you walk to a certain point and then turn and look at a historic building from that vantage point as he did with the Westinkurkin. I would have missed seeing the church from this view has I not been listening.
Chania, Crete!
After a week of fall-like weather, we arrived in Chania, Crete and returned to summer. Chania is a sweet, small city. Lots of Europeans vacation here as evidenced by the plentiful souvenir shops. But it is easy to wander off the tourist trail and explore the many beautiful, quiet streets throughout the old town. I quickly discovered a jewelry shop featuring local artists and a pharmacy where I could find the Greek brand lotions and skin care that I love. Like other cities, there is a Venetian wall that once protected the city but what makes Chania really special are the Greek ruins throughout. In fact, our hotel lobby had a glass floor to display the ruins underneath.
There is so much to see on this island of Crete but given our limited time here, so we focused on Chania and decided to save other highlights such as the Samaria Gorge for another trip.
Beach Clubs
I love the way Europeans do beach clubs. You show up, pay for a bed and umbrella or agree to spend a certain amount on food and drinks (the cost varies according to location of the sunbeds). We tried three different clubs on this trip and they varied somewhat; one included towels, another was self service. I judge a beach club on its bathrooms. One was pristine. Another less so… Either way, I had time to do what I love best, relax and read.
Ornu Beach club near the airport in Chania (this was probably my favorite!)
Cooking class: Veerna’s kitchen!
Our friends visited Chania this past April and recommended Veerna’s kitchen cooking class (Thank you Jamie and Theanei!) ! This was our first time taking a cooking class and we loved it! Alex, Veerna’s nephew picked us up in old town and took us up into the hills to the stunning outdoor space. Veerna and her brother Kosti greeted us with lemonade and sesame cookies. We sat surrounded by olive trees and got to know the other visitors taking the class. This is a part of traveling I love the most! We met a couple from Sweden, both power weight lifters! A woman from Kentucky, fluent in Greek because her best friends from college are Greek. Her passion is hats- she owns over 200 and has a hat room in her home. Oh, and she is looking to buy property in Greece! There was a couple from Washington state who were enjoying a trip on their own without their 5 sons! We met two young girls from Ottawa, Canada navigating their first Grecian adventure. Of course, we enjoyed getting to know Veerna and her family. Anyway, back to the food.
This class was equal parts history lesson, cultural study and cooking instruction. We first prepared a lamb dish called the "thieves’ dish”. Veerna explained that local Cretans moved to the hills anticipating an Ottoman invasion. There, Cretans learned to forage and live off the land but in order to get protein, they had to steal animals from the Ottoman’s farms. Of course, they had to cook the meat using a method that did not give off smoke. I won’t get into the details of how they did that but we wrapped the lamb, along with potatoes, carrots and onion all doused with a generous amount of olive oil and thyme, in parchment paper and aluminum foil and then it baked in a wood fired oven for 2.5 hours.
We made stuffed veggies, including my favorite stuffed grade leaves. We rolled phyllo dough (the most challenging part of the meal. Thank goodness that Alex helped us), and stuffed it with spinach and cheese. We reserved two pieces of dough for sweet cheese that would be part of our dessert accompanied with yogurt and fruit. Veerna made tzatziki which Americans typically serve with pita bread but here, it serves as a side to any dish. We snacked on other local delicacies, and learned about Cretan soft cheese (which might be my new obsession).
After all that work, we felt the satisfaction of enjoying a meal that we prepared! If you come to Chania, you must take this class! Here is the link!
Best cooking class EVER!
Rethymno day trip and another beach club
With one full day left, we decided to rent a car and explore the city of Reythymno. It is a beautiful little town with narrow streets where vines and flowers form a canopy ( and an oasis from the sun). These streets are likely what you will find when you search Rethymno on Instagram. We stayed for a few hours, explored the old city, walked around the harbor and lighthouse and then headed to a beach club about 15 minutes away.
Rethymno
And that is a wrap! Another great trip on the books. Overall, I feel grateful that Stu and I have found a nice balance with our summer travels in Europe: sightseeing with downtime at the beach. Bruges and Amsterdam were wonderful but I love Greece! As with Italy, I feel like I could come back here again and again to explore more islands and the mainland. Corfu, Kefalonia, the Peloponnese region, and Crete are all on my TBT (To Be Traveled) list. ‘Til next time!
Sunset in Chania
